5597 Mapledale Plaza, Dale City, Virginia 22193. Phone 703-670-7668

Newsletter - Maple Shade Animal Hospital, serving pets in Dale City and Woodbridge, VA

Pet Care Resources: Newsletter

The veterinarians and staff at Maple Shade Animal Hospital are pleased to provide the pet owners of Woodbridge and Dale City with an online newsletter. This fun and fact-filled newsletter is updated on a regular basis.

Included in the newsletter are articles pertaining to pet care, information on our animal hospital, as well as news on the latest trends and discoveries in veterinary medicine.

Please enjoy the newsletter!

Current Newsletter Topics

Pilling Your Cat

How to give your cat a pill:

So, the veterinarian has sent you and your cat home with a bottle of pills and some instructions. Don't worry - giving pills to your cat is not as difficult as it may appear. It's just a matter of know-how and plenty of praise.

One thing to remember though, giving a pill to a cat is not quite the same as giving a pill to a dog.

  1. Have someone hold your cat's front legs and chest from behind so you're free to do the rest, or vice versa. If you have trouble, wrap a blanket or towel around your cat.

  2. Put your hand on top of the cat's head, avoiding the lower jaw. Raise the head until your cat's nose points to the ceiling. As the mouth opens, use your other hand to hold the pill and press down on the lower jaw, pushing the pill as far back on the tongue as possible.
Letting the Cat Out...Or Not

Thanks to the creation and marketing of cat litter in the mid 1940's, more and more cats have become indoor-only pets. As such, cats are now leading longer lives, with some living 20+ years! Our homes offer a safer, healthier environment than life on the street. The average life span of an indoor cat is 10 years, whereas the average lifespan of an outdoor cat is just 2 years. There is no doubt that indoors is safer.

They like to be outside, but the risks can be great.

Yet, when we choose to make our cats indoors-only companions, we have a responsibility to provide the stimulation that was previously provided by the great outdoors. Scratching and climbing posts become trees; interactive toys become hunted birds, bugs and field mice. A rotating array of cat playthings provides excitement, unpredictability and exercise which, in turn, gives your cat everything it needs while extending its life inside. With that said, many cat lovers still prefer to commune with nature with their feline friends. Fortunately, there are several ways to minimize the risks.

Most importantly, while vaccinations are important for indoor cats, they are absolutely critical to the health of outdoor cats. The threat of rabies, FeLV, FIV, and FIP, transmitted through altercations with wildlife, or interaction with stray, un-vaccinated cats, should be enough to have your cat immunized in order to give you peace of mind. All of these diseases can be prevented and can provide your outdoor cat with proper protection should he need it.

If you feel as though your cat deserves the fun of being outside, but want to provide a safe way to experience nature, there are alternatives to opening the door and watching him go. Harnesses and leashes (gasp!) have been developed for cats. Either cat specific or small dog accessories fit well and are relatively inexpensive. Training your cat to walk with the harness takes patience (unless you start with a kitten, in which case it could take less time), but the reward is worth it. Your cat will be able to experience the joys of being outside in a controlled environment. How far he can travel is up to you!

It may seem silly, but it's a good idea!

Outdoor enclosures are another great alternative. Since outdoor enclosures are usually homemade, they come in all shapes and sizes. For durability, chicken wire or wire hardware cloth - secured around a simple wood frame - is preferable to ordinary window screening. The most successful structures usually feature climbing and resting furniture inside. A shaded area is necessary for warm or hot weather. Whether you choose an outdoor enclosure or add cat-proof netting to the top of traditional fencing, they are safest used only when you are at home able to check on them often.

Even with the option of training or providing your cat with an enclosed outdoor adventure area, you still need to consider identification. Lost cats result in heartache that can easily be avoided. Microchip and ID tags provide easy identification and may be what reunites you with your cat should he / she get lost or scooped up by a caring, but ignorant stranger.

When deciding whether or not to let your cat outdoors, it is important for you to consider the alternatives. As the pet industry expands and becomes more creative, more and more indoor/outdoor products are going to become available. Of course, there is nothing better than being outside. If you can provide your cat with the proper care and protection, allowing your cat to go outdoors can be a fun and healthy existence.

Through The Eyes Of Your Dog

Owners who want to better understand their canine companions must recognize that dogs see the world from a different visual perspective. The differences begin with the structure of the eye. We have a good idea what dogs see because we know the make-up of the retina of a dog’s eye.

The retina is the light sensitive portion of the eye. This structure is located in the back of the inside of the eyeball. The retina contains two types of light sensitive cells: rods and cones. Cones provide color perception and detailed sight, while rods detect motion and vision in dim light. Dogs have rod-dominated retinas that allow them to see well in the dark. Along with superior night vision, dogs have better motion visibility than humans have. However, because their retinas’ contain only about one-tenth the concentration of cones that humans have, dogs do not see colors as humans do.

Comparison between colors human see and those canines see

Dogs see like a color-blind human. Many people think that a person who is red/green color blind cannot see any color, but there are variations of color blindness. Most people have vision that is trichromatic (three-color variations). People who are red/green color blind are dichromatic (two color variations). Dogs’ retinas can distinguish two colors. These colors are blue-violet and yellow. Dogs can also differentiate between shades of gray. Dogs are unable to recognize green, yellow, orange, and red.

Colors that Humans See

Colors That Humans See

Colors that Dogs See

Colors That Dogs See

Dogs use other cues such as smell, texture, brightness, and position rather than relying solely on color. Seeing-eye dogs, for example, may not distinguish between a green or red stoplight; they look at the brightness and position of the light. This, along with the flow and noise of traffic, tell the dog that it is the right time to cross the street.

How a dog’s eyes are set determines the field of view as well as depth perception. Prey species tend to have eyes located on the sides of their head. This gives the animals an increased field of view and allows them to see approaching predators. Predator species, like humans and dogs, have eyes set close together. Human eyes are set straight forward while dog eyes, depending on the breed, are usually set at a 20 degree angle. This angle increases the field of view and therefore increases the peripheral vision of the dog.

Increased peripheral vision compromises the amount of binocular vision. Binocular vision occurs where the field of view of each eye overlaps. Binocular vision is necessary for depth perception. The wider-set eyes of dogs have less overlap and less binocular vision, thus, less depth perception). Dogs’ depth perception is best when they look straight ahead. This is not an ideal situation, as their nose often interferes. Predators need binocular vision as a survival tool. Binocular vision aids in jumping, leaping, catching, and many other activities fundamental to predators.

The dog’s field of vision is wider than the human’s

In addition to having less binocular vision than humans have, dogs also have less visual acuity. Humans with perfect eyesight are said to have 20/20 vision. This means that we can distinguish letters or objects at a distance of 20 feet. Dogs typically have 20/75 vision. What this means is that they must be 20 feet from an object to see it as well as a human standing 75 feet away. Certain breeds have better visual acuity. Labradors, commonly used as seeing-eye dogs, are bred for better eyesight and may have vision that is closer to 20/20.

If you’re silently standing across the field from your dog, don’t expect him or her to recognize you. He’ll recognize you when you do some sort of motion particular to yourself. He may also recognize your presence by his outstanding sense of smell and/or hearing. Because of the large number of rods in the retina, dogs see moving objects much better than they see stationary objects. Motion sensitivity has been noted as the critical aspect of canine vision. Much of dog behavior deals with posture and appropriateness. Small changes in your body posture mean a lot to your dog. Dog owners need to modify training based on this fact. If you want your dog to perform an action based on a silent cue, we suggest using a wide sweeping hand and arm motion in order to cue your dog.

When dogs go blind, owners often wonder if the dogs’ quality of life has diminished to the point where they are no longer happy. Humans deal well with being blind, and humans are much more dependent on their eyes than are dogs. Blind dogs lead happy lives as long as they are comfortable. The owner may need to make some adjustments in the pet’s environment. Some of these adjustments include fencing the yard, taking leashed walks, and not leaving unusual objects in the dog’s normal pathways. Obviously, most blind dogs cannot navigate stairs very well. When blind dogs are in their normal environment, most people don’t know they are blind.

Back Problems In Dogs

An animal that has trouble going up or down the stairs, can't jump up on the furniture, and / or seems to be in constant pain may have a back problem

Disk problems are the most common back problems in dogs. The disk functions as a shock absorber between the vertebrae, commonly known as the bones of the back.

When these disks are injured or degenerate, they put pressure on the nerves, creating a "pinched nerve." Aside from a pinched nerve, the injury can interfere with nerve impulses that are sent down the spinal cord. Without a complete functioning nervous system, advanced cases can cause a wobbly gait, leading to paralysis in the hind limbs.

Dogs with short legs and long bodies are most affected by disk problems. Commonly affected breeds include dachshunds and basset hounds.

Basset Hound

Basset Hound


Dachshund

Dachshund


Early detection is very important in the treatment of back problems. As soon as a problem is noticed, strict rest is recommended. Unlike humans, dogs don't lie on their backs and certainly don't do very well in traction. Strict rest, and particularly no jumping, is best for the animal.

In more pronounced cases, your veterinarian may recommend surgery in order to remove the affected disk. Back surgery is generally pretty expensive and there are risks that go with it. Back surgery is generally performed by a surgeon / specialist at a referral veterinary hospital.

The earlier the surgical procedure is done, the higher its success rate. Back injuries in dogs are like spinal cord injuries in people. Once paralysis sets in, the success rate declines rapidly, and some veterinarians elect not to take their patients to surgery.

Early detection and a veterinary examination are essential for quick recovery from a back injury. Depending upon the severity of the injury, most dogs recover quite well with medication, rest and lots of TLC. Dogs that have more complicated injuries may be candidates for more complicated back surgery.

Flea Control for Dogs

Pet owners and their canine companions aren't the only ones who look forward to the warm weather. As summer approaches, pet owners must once again be on guard against fleas, the prolific parasites that can keep dogs and humans alike scratching for months on end. In the northern United States, fleas are prevalent during the warm summer months, though the pesky parasites cause trouble year-round for pet owners in the south.

Fleas can cause a variety of health problems beyond itchy bites

Keeping fleas off your pet and out of your home is about more than just stopping your pet's constant scratching. Aside from itchy, irritating bites, fleas can cause the skin disease flea allergy dermatitis in both cats and dogs, as well as miliary dermatitis in cats. Fleas can also transmit Dipylidium caninum, or double-pore tapeworm, a common tapeworm found in dogs and cats, as well as a number of other diseases.

Even if fleas aren't on your pet right now, they may be living in your home. There are four stages in a flea's life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. It is only during the adult stage that the flea actually lives on an animal; during the other three stages, the flea lives in the surround environment. Immature fleas usually account for about 90 to 95 percent of the total flea population in a home. A good rule of thumb is that for every flea you find on your pet, there are about 100 more immature fleas living in the surrounding environment.

Life cycle of the flea

The average flea can live for anywhere between 12 days and 180 days, though the typical lifespan of a flea lasts three to six weeks. But even in that short amount of time, an adult female can lay more than 1,000 eggs, which means that even only one flea can result in big problems.

How can you tell if fleas have invaded your home and latched on to your dog? Scratching is the first sign. During feeding, fleas inject saliva into the skin of the animal; this saliva contains proteins that cause allergic skin reactions, which leads to bouts of rubbing and scratching. Fleas are most commonly found on dogs around the base of the tail and on the belly. If you suspect your dog has fleas but cannot see them, check for "flea dirt." This is the excrement of the flea and consists of a mix of feces and dried blood. To find flea dirt, have your pet lay on the ground and place a piece of white paper underneath him or her. Brush your pet and let the paper collect any dirt or debris. Next, add a few drops of water to the dirt on the paper; if dried blood is present, the water will take on a reddish color, indicating the presence of flea dirt.

If you are experiencing a heavy infestation of fleas, treating your pet may not be enough. Home and yard treatments are also available to keep fleas at bay. Effective flea control measures include vacuuming several times each week and washing your pet's bedding once a week. For particularly bad infestations, try using a insect spray or fogger a few times. Outside your home, sprays can be used to hit fleas where they live. Fleas thrive in moist, shady areas, such as under bushes, mulch, porches and crawl spaces. Target these areas to reduce flea populations.

During the last several years, significant improvements have been made to flea control products. Oral and topical medications containing insect growth regulators (IGR) and insect development inhibitors (IDI) disrupt the flea's maturation process and stop infestations before they begin. These treatments are less toxic for pets and the environment and more effective in controlling fleas.

Topical treatments are more effective than past products because they remain on the surface of the pet's skin, where they are toxic only to fleas, rather than absorbed into the pet's bloodstream. Below is a list of common flea control products available through your veterinarian. Flea control products designed for dogs should not be used on cats and could result in serious illness or death. If you have multiple dogs, keep the dogs separated for an hour or two after applying each treatment in order to avoid oral ingestion.

Advantage for Dogs

Advantage: Developed by Bayer, Advantage is a topical solution containing the active ingredient imidacloprid, which acts on the nervous system of the flea. Advantage stops biting fleas within three to five minutes of initial application and kills adult fleas within an hour. Advantage also kills flea larvae within 20 minutes of contact. Advantage should be applied monthly and is available only through your veterinarian.

Advantage Multi

Advantage Multi: This topical solution combines imidacloprid, the same flea-killing ingredient found in Advantage, with moxidectin, which prevents heartworm disease and treats and controls intestinal worms such as hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. Advantage Multi should be applied monthly in order to best control fleas and parasites and is available by prescription only.

Comfortis, a chewable tablet that provides flea control.

Comfortis: Developed by Lilly, Comfortis is a chewable, beef-flavored tablet that can prevent flea infestations in dogs for one month. The active ingredient is spinosad, a member of a class of antiparasitics called spinosysn. Spinosads are low-toxicity pesticides that are effective at eliminating pests while maintaining a low environmental risk. Comfortis is available by prescription only.

Frontline Top Spot for Dogs

Frontline Top Spot: A topical solution similar to the Frontline Spray developed by Merial in 1996, Frontline Top Spot provides protection from both fleas and ticks. The active ingredient is fipronil, which kills adult fleas on dogs. Frontline should be applied monthly and remains waterproof for 30 days.

Frontline Plus for Dogs

Frontline Plus: This flea control product is similar to Frontline Top Spot but also contains methoprene, which disrupts the flea's maturation process by killing eggs and larvae. Like Frontline Top Spot, Frontline Plus provides protection from fleas and ticks for 30 days.

K9 Advantix

K9 Advantix: This product uses the active ingredients imidacloprid and permethrin to repel and kill fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. Imidacloprid kills adult fleas within three to five minutes and also kills flea larvae, while permethrin repels and kills ticks and mosquitoes. Developed by Bayer, K9 Advantix is available through your veterinarian and should be used monthly.

ProMeris for Dogs

ProMeris: Developed by Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), ProMeris uses the active ingredients metaflumizone and amitraz to kill and repel flea and tick infestations. Metaflumizone causes neuron disruptions in fleas, resulting in loss of coordination, paralysis and death. Amitraz is a tick repellant previously only available on collars or dips. ProMeris is available by prescription and should be used monthly for best results.

Revolution

Revolution: Developed by Pfizer, Revolution prevents, kills and controls a number of parasites, including fleas, ear mites and the American dog tick. Revolution is also effective in preventing heartworm disease and treating sarcoptic mange. Revolution contains selamectin. When applied, the drug enters the bloodstream through the skin; concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissue prevent heartworm disease, while concentrations in the skin protects against fleas and flea eggs.

Vectra 3D for Dogs

Vectra 3D: A topical treatment developed by Summit VetPharm, Vectra 3D kills 96% of fleas in 6 hours and repels fleas, ticks and mosquitoes for at least one month. It contains the active ingredients dinotefuran and permethrin, pesticides specifically used to help kill fleas on adult dogs. Vectra 3D is available by prescription only.